FLEAS Fleas are by far, the most common external parasite. These tiny brown wingless insects live on the cat's skin and feed by sucking the animal's blood, causing the cat's skin to itch. Fleas have six legs, which are equipped with hooks, allowing them to latch on to a host. Compressed in the flea's abdomen by leg and thorax muscles, is an elasticlike protein called resilin, which, when released, catapults the flea upward. The body of the flea is flat and covered in protective cuticle plates, making them nearly impossible to crush. Adult fleas will remain on the cat, however, they account for only about five percent of the problem. The other ninety five percent is made up of the other three stages of the flea's life cycle. The potent allergen of the flea's saliva may cause a severe allergic reaction in a susceptible cat, causing the cat to lose a great deal of hair (specially above the tail), develop scaly skin on its back, and scratch till the skin bleeds. This condition is called fleabite dermatitis. Heavily infested cats can become anemic very quickly, making them susceptible to other diseases. A small kitten or a debilitated cat infested with fleas can easily be bled to death! As well, if ingested, they can transmit tapeworm to your cat. Chances of flea infestation are greater in warmer climates, and will not survive at elevations over 5,000 feet. Diagnosis There are two ways to check your cat for fleas: by separating the cat's fur on the rump or groin area, you will see the fleas moving on the cat's scalp. Another way, is to place your cat on a moistened white paper towel, and rub vigorously around the cat's tail. Any black specks that fall onto the paper towel and turn red (a flea's feces are mostly blood), will indicate flea infestation in your cat. Controlling Fleas NOTE: All flea products are insecticides and can be very dangerous if not used properly. Always consult with your veterinarian before using. The primary goals of flea control are the eradication of fleas from your cat, and the prevention of another infestation. Both your cat, and its environment must be treated. In order to rid your home of fleas, you must first understand the four stages of the flea's life cycle.
As seen in the above diagram, fleas lay their eggs while on the cat. The eggs then fall off, landing anywhere in the environment the cat has access to, such as carpets, sofas and cracks in wooden floors, where they feed on organic debris, especially flea feces. The eggs hatch into larva (time varies from 1 to 10 days depending on humidity and warm temperatures). Approximately 5-11 days later, they become pupa, and enclose themselves in a cocoon, which is resistant to insecticides. Adult fleas emerge only when stimulated by carbon dioxide, heat, or physical pressure. This may occur within 5 days, but can live inside the cocoon for up to 140 days before emerging. Typically, the cat flea's life cycle is complete within 3-4 weeks. Although flea infestation can occur at any time of the year, it is best to take action in the spring, since by beginning treatment early, you can avoid a serious flea problem later on in the summer. Any fleas the cat may happen to pick up will be unable to lay viable eggs, breaking the flea development cycle. Remember, if one animal in your household is infested, you can be sure others in the household are too. It is important to note that most insecticidal products must not be used on kittens less than two or three months old. In these situations, it is best to use light applications of pyrethrin or pyrethroid sprays or shampoos. Most flea shampoos tend to be ineffective, since they lack residual activity. Powders (pyrethrin and carbamate) are especially effective on short-haired cats, although they tend to make the cat's fur dull and dry. Sprays are effective, however, sprays containing alcohol may be irritating to the cat's skin. Dips are especially effective for long-haired cats, but can make the cat's fur dry. Adding one capful of Alpha Keri bath oil (or something similar) per gallon to the dipping solution, will help. Foams (mouse) are well tolerated, are easy to apply, and effective. As well as treating the cat for fleas, you must also treat the environment. This includes thoroughly cleaning all areas your cat has access to. All beds, pillows, rugs, cushions etc., should be washed. If it is not possible to wash these items, vacuum them thoroughly, remove the vacuum bag, seal it, and dispose of it immediately. Vacuuming removes a large number of eggs, as well as stimulates pre-emerged (adults still in cocoon) to emerge where they are susceptible to insecticides. References: The
Cornell Book of Cats
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